Thursday, June 24, 2004

I will try to give a brief recap of what has been going on for the past week or so...
I spent a few more days in Veliko Turnovo. I went to a monastery in the mountains where they were preparing for a rock climbing competition later that night. I got to watch some people climbing during the day, but I did not climb myself, and I did not stay for the competition at night. I visited a small village closeby with the Bulgarian girl who told me about the competition, and we sat and talked for awhile on the side of a hill overlooking the fortress in Veliko Turnovo. We had an unfortunate dilemma with a Canadian guy that I had met days before, but I won't go into it because the whole thing was really stupid anyway.
I came back to Sofia just in time for Titko's birthday party. There was 30-40 people at his house, with a campfire in the backyard etc., etc. The "after party", starting at 10am the following morning after only a few hours of sleep, and continuing until about 4am that night, rivaled the night before. For a few hours, Mateo, in his drunken state, could barely muster anymore in English than "good village... good people", which, though a bit funny, may be the most sane proclamation I've heard in awhile. It has now become somewhat of a pet phrase for us and has been used numerous times by myself and others in many different situations. ;-)
After a day of recovery, I met up with two Dutch girls that I met in Veliko Turnovo, along with a crew of travelers that were staying in their hostal. We went to a bar to meet up with some of my Bulgarian friends, and yet another long night of drinking and partying began. I must say, hanging out with travelers is a very different beast... or maybe I should say "westerners". That sounds negative, but it's not the intent... just different. Personally, I enjoy both and have no preference... but I can understand better now why some people may.
So, a few more days aimlessly wandering around town and then I met with Ilian and a few of his friends to take a train to some town about 1.5 hours from Sofia, of which I have forgotten the name. We explored a deep cave that had a river running through it. Luckily I had brought a few flashlights, as the cell phones were not quite cutting it in the absolute darkness. We did some hiking, watched some climbers, took a swim in a small pond at the base of a tiny waterfall and had a few beers at a roadside picnic spot. All in all, a wonderful outdoorsy day. I met another Spanish speaking Bulgarian and enjoyed being able to converse with her in another language. I sometimes feel guilty that the locals must know my language in order for me to communicate with them.
Today I had to make a border-run... that is, to cross the border into another country just before my visa expired, only to return a few minutes later in order to get a new visa. So, I can now say that I've been to Serbia, though I can hardly say I visited there. The whole process was for the most part uneventful, but a bit comical... an absurd ritual of which no one involved quite understands what is the purpose. I now have a fresh visa with 30 more days to stay in Bulgaria. On the way to the border I saw tanks practicing on a firing range less than 200 meters from the road.
Which brings me to now...
In a few days, some friends from Sofia and I will make a trip to the Black Sea for "July Morning", the sunrise on July 1st, which apparently is somewhat of an enigma here in Bulgaria due to an 80s rock tune that I am unfamiliar with. While we are there, I will be looking for a place to stay for the next 2 months. I have decided to pass the next 2 months here in Bulgaria where it will be cheap enough for me to live without getting a job, and then finish my trip through Israel, Jordan and Egypt in the final 2 months. A part of me thinks this is not quite as adventurous as hopping from country to country for the next 2 months, but, for financial reasons, I doubt that it is feasible. And anyway, the other part of me, maybe even the better part, likes to stay in one place long enough to be involved in the culture, rather than just a spectator for a few days at a time.
I have finished reading two more books and have had numerous interesting conversations, and hence, I have a lot on my mind spiritually and philosophically which I would like to express here at some point, but this has been enough typing for today. Maybe next time... :-)

Sunday, June 13, 2004

I found a book in English a couple of weeks ago that I have always wanted to read, but never have, so I bought it, and it has admirably surpassed any of my expectations. There's a passage that has been echoing in my head for the past week or so, especially when, like today, I am particularly uneasy about my lack of direction and even lack of desire on this trip, and it comforts me, so I'd like to share it...

"Mountains should be climbed with as little effort as possible and without desire. The reality of your own nature should determine the speed"... "To live only for some future goal is shallow. It's the sides of the mountain which sustain life, not the top. Here's where things grow."
- Robert M. Pirsig, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance

Enjoy! :-)

Friday, June 11, 2004

Sorry... once again I have neglected to post for a considerable amount of time. I had been in Sofia, Bulgaria for most of the time, and I guess, although I was enjoying myself, there wasn't much to post.
I am now in Veliko Turnovo, Bulgaria. It is a beautiful little town climbing the sides of a mountain overlooking a valley. There's a beautiful fortress that has an amazing sound and light show at night. The view from the hotel that I was staying in was stunning, but I have now moved to a private house because it is cheaper. I have been here for 5 days now, a big surprise as I only stopped here for the night to meet a friend from Sofia who was visiting his girlfriend here. Now 5 days later I am still here and probably won't leave until Sunday or Monday. I was going to leave today, but I was invited to a rock climbing competition (to watch, not compete) on Saturday, so I've decided to stay.
Ever since I was denied my Syrian visa, my trip has taken many strange turns. I feel a bit lost and unmotivated, though I must admit, I have accidentaly ended up in some fantastic places with fantastic people, so I can't quite complain. Wandering aimlessly in a part of the world you have no previous knowledge of, and no guide book or other information for is a bit adventurous I suppose, but it's harder for me to leave the comfort of where I am at the moment and to move off into the unknown. I guess the point is that there is no use in suggesting what I will be doing or where I will be going, because it could easily change at any moment... so I'll just try to keep you updated on what I already have done.
As some of you may already know, I have been hoping to get a job with the Baltimore City Fire Department. Before I left for my trip, I signed up on a waiting list, but I was under the impression that the opportunity would not arise for 6 to 9 months. Unfortunately I just got notice that there is a test for applicants tomorrow. Obviously, I will not be able to make it home in time for that. Had I had more notice, I would have returned early from my trip without any regret. So, I'm a bit dissappointed that I missed the opportunity, but I suppose that now I can go on with the rest of my trip without having to worry about it, as there most likely will not be another academy for at least 6 months. I was hoping to come home just before an academy started so that I don't have to live some sort of temporary existence when I get home for a few months while I wait for something to happen, but, as with everything on this trip so far, nothing goes quite as planned.
My experience here in Bulgaria has been quite interesting. I spent a over a week with some friends of a Bulgarian girl that we met in Istanbul. All of them, and their friends, are really cool, friendly people who have been incredibally hospitable to me. Instead of staying in a hostal, going to museums, reading in a guide book where to go and then leaving for the next town 2 days later... which is a typical experience when traveling alone in a foriegn country... I have had a much different experience. Hanging out at the house with friends, go-kart racing, fishing in a lake in the mountain and then making a big meal at home etc. has made me feel much more at home, rather than a tourist. The town I am in now I wouldn't have known about unless someone I met in Sofia had told me about it. When I came here, I met more friends of the people in Sofia and ended up in a classroom the next day with a Bulgarian guy who teaches English. Different experiences like this have made my time here in Bulgaria very memorable, and I suppose that makes up for the feeling of not knowing what the hell I am doing here, or where I will go tomorrow.
So, there's my major update. As I said, I don't really know what lies ahead, so I won't bother. I am anxious to get some definitive plan as to where I will be going for the next few months, but I guess that will come when the time is right. Take care all........